Cranksgiving, Masi and Freehub servicing.

2 days until Cranksgiving and I'm getting super stoked. Head count is close to 20?

Here is a shot of me from the Tour de Pink this year.

This shot was taken by John M. Flores. He was Cinco's roommate for a spell on the 07 TdP. John is an avid photographer, motorcycle enthusiast and bike fan. He had a camera mounted on the end of the motorcycle's handlebar which too a picture every 5 seconds. Pretty cool. I was attempting to out run him in the above frame; with a slight downhill rolling close to 30mph. Thanks John. Hope you leg is getting better.

The bike against the guide rail. The frame pump isn't something that oozes speed, technology and state of the art but damn it I had to almost pull it off 2 times for rogue dogs that chased me. The Conti 4000 from 2 years ago have been wearing like nails. They are starting to get flat and I rotated them for the event. I am hesitant to get rid of them as I have had ZERO flats with them on my Ultegra hoops.

-Speaking of hoops, The WH-600s are the first Shimano wheels in their line up with a servicable freehub body; Campy style. Take note when servicing them you'll need a t-handle hex wrench and a 20mm Park Cone wrench. Remove the QR axle, cassette and insert the hex into the driveside to stabilize the axle and use the 20mm wrench to loosen the left handed nut on the axle. It will take some brute force to loosen the 20mm if it's your first time. After that upon reassembling, use some assembly lube on the threads after servicing. Service will require a dental pick, Phils Tenacious Lube, couple of rags and Clean Streak Metal Prep.
-Slowly pull the freehub body off the axle. There are 3 paws that will need to be removed using the dental pick. remove the F/H, paws and set aside on a clean rag. Clean all surfaces well with a clean rag and Metal Prep; hub cavity, F/H neck and paws. After 15 minutes of OCDing and cleaning, reassemble using Phil's Lube. This stuff rocks for everything that needs to be slicker than grease owl poop. I have used it in a pinch on derail cables for P.O.S. repairs; customer doesn't want to spend more than 10 bux on the repair and wiping the cable (last section of housing/cable at the rear derail) with a ScotchBrite pad and dripping the Lube on the cable breathes life into the shifting quality.
-Lube the hub cavity so that every notch that the paws engage are wet with lube but not flooded out. With the paws reinstalled and everything together, slide the F/H back onto the axle making sure to compress the paws with a finger against one paw, dental pick against and another and turn slowly counter clockwise while gently press down. It should all seat together and after installing the 20mm nut, you'll notice the freehub is quiter during operation. Do this at least every 3k miles after your first disassembly/service session. Service it more if you ride in rainy or sandy climates.
-This is similar to Campy and FSA freehubs. Once you ride a F/H like this, you'll appreciate the serviceability of them and better engagement feel than the conventional, disposable Shimano freehubs.


Popular Posts